Laos is different. It’s not as touristy as Thailand or Cambodia, it is much more relaxed. The official name is Lao PDR, People’s democratic republic. But everybody jokes it is PDR- please don’t rush. Everything little thing is done in Lao-time, it will take people ages to even acknowledge you’ve walked into their restaurant or want their service. This is also the hardest time I’ve had communicating with people. A lot of the time it really seems like people just cant be bothered to attempt to help us. ..But I’m still enjoying myself. Apparently enjoying myself so much that I cannot find time to write about where I am or what I’m doing. Expect this to a jumbled entry of my entire two weeks in Laos.
The roads here are ridiculous. I don’t understand why it alternates from paved to not so frequently. I can’t figure out why they paved roads but left huge gaps un filled. How did they decide which parts of the road would receive cement or not? The weirdest is when half the street is paved- sorry, northbound on this side is going to be rocky. I can’t imagine if their decision was based on paving the parts of the road that were the worst…because I can’t imagine if the roads were worse than they are now. Windy and bumps and pot holes and cows, and cars and other drivers. It’s hard to write on, or even worse, sleep on. Which is what I need. Naps and sleep. Traveling can be exhausting. However, as I sit on a slow boat from Luang Prabang to Phakbang, I think Penelope and I have discovered the best way of travel. On the boat there is a breeze, lots of space, and most importantly, the ride is smooth so I’ve been able to fit in three different naps! But this is the ending of our journey is Laos, let me start at the beginning…
In Cambodia we picked up a Swiss girl named Nadine. Essentially saved her from Philipino casino scammers and invited her to join us on the rest of our travels. We headed south to the beaches in Sihankoukville, were not the most impressed, so cut our trip short and headed to 4000 islands in Laos. After a VIP bus breakdown, a overcrowded rescue bus, a tuk tuk drive from the border, and a tipsy river boat through what we only assumed was crocodile infested water, we arrived at Don Det, the smallest of the 4000 islands. Due to lack of reservations and impatience, Penelope and I ended up in one guesthouse, mama’s, while Kayla and Nadine ended up in a much fancier one. We then decided to stay that way for the rest of our trip, and thus ended our group of four traveling together. It was time for Kayla and I to split up. Our friendship was not going to survive. But everybody is happy, and it was for the best. For penelope and myself, the islands consisted of our wonderfully crazy guesthouse owner, Mama, lacking waterfalls, hot bike rides, little shade, sunset boat rides and dolphins, tubing in the middle of nowhere, hammocks, and bright pink mosquito netting.
From Don Det we headed to Pakse, coffee capital of Laos. I did not indulge, but did get a manicure. It was here where P.Lope and I picked up Lavinia, an Italian girl traveling by herself. The three of us headed on an overnight bus to Vientiane, the capital. In the sleeper bus each person was actually given their own bed! Not that the roads allowed for much sleep. Vientiane was a short visit, but a good visit. It all started off properly with a delicious breakfast of cornflakes & fruit, and the best frozen mocha from a little French bakery down the road from our guesthouse. Lavinia, Penelope and I knocked off most tourist things in the first day: the Buddha park, cultural park, BeerLao factory (almost), proper Lao lunch, the black stupa, and the victory arch. That lunch is still one of my favorite dishes I have been served here. I had a local man order me traditional food and wound up with Laap. Laap is a type of minced meat salad served with rice. My meat was duck and it was washed down by tons of free BeerLao provided by the locals I befriended and ended up sitting with for lunch. That was a really good day, leading into an even better night where I talked to my friend Max and began to be convinced that the best option for me would be to cancel my flight out of Bangkok and meet up with him in Malaysia..
We then went to a town called Vang Vieng. It’s a small little river town that has within five years became the party capital of Laos. The whole concept is you float down this river in an inner tube. There are bars all along the river, and they throw ropes to you and pull you in. So it’s like a huge river pub crawl. At the bars they give you tons of free shots and everybody buys these bucket drinks and people are just all sorts of fucked up. There is tons of drugs and tons of drinking. But the scenery was so pretty. Beautiful jagged mountains. So we did the pub crawl one night, no tubing involved. Then did the whole float down the river the next day, after exploring caves. The bars really weren’t as bad as I’d had them described to me, but I’m sure that is because it was low season. On average, 25 people per year die on that river, so the partying is nothing to mess around with. But Penelope and I survived, had a blast, and made cool friends. Marios the French boy was my favorite.
Then was Phonsavan and the famous & mysterious Plain of Jars. Massive stone jars in a field. Nobody knows how they got there or what they were used for. Took a day tour to three different sites, got stuck in the mud, and found it impossible to find a massage parlor.
We then headed to my favorite city in Laos, still rich in french culture from back in the days of colonization, Luang Prabang. The entire city is an UNESCO World Heritage site. Most of the girls still wear traditional skirts, and the entire city has a curfew of midnight— everything begins to shut down by 11:30. We did all the typical touristy things to do. Each day I had a favorite bit- Vat Xieng Thong with beautiful glass mosaics, elephant rides through the jungle, rope swings & waterfalls, the cooooolest free fashion show and break dance performance, volunteering at Big Brother Mouse. Big Brother Mouse was a really cool experience where we volunteered to help students practice their English. The students turned out to all be 15 years and older, and we basically just had a conversation about them. It was interesting to discuss differences in culture and tradition. Here we also ran into and spent more time with Lavinia! As well as the French guys we’ve seen in every single city..I’m surprised they aren’t on this boat with us. Today we then survived a disaster of a morning losing a wallet, our tickets, and breaking into a laundry shop. But here we are, on the first boat ride of our two day journey out of Laos.
Oh, and I did officially cancel my flight out of Bangkok. Rather than returning to New Zealand, I am flying to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia to meet up with Max, one of the guys I lived with in Paihia. Max and I will then have about two weeks to travel around before we need to be in Bangkok to meet up with Oli. The three of us will celebrate Max’s birthday together before Oli flies home and I fly to Australia. I may completely be out of money by the time I arrive in Brisbane, but I’m very happy with my decision and really looking forward to seeing both of the guys again. Plus, luckily, my cousin Erin just moved to Brisbane, so I will have somewhere to stay for free while I sort out all my work stuff and get adjusted to everything being super expensive again. Aaand, my long lost friend Tara from Canada will be arriving in Brisbane about two weeks after me. So I get to catch up with her as well!!
So that is what I’ve been up to. Tomorrow I’ll try to find motivation to write about my thoughts on different things here in Laos, not just a boring list of what I’ve done and seen.
I miss you all!